Navegador fez questão de levar a equipe até a única colônia de pinguins-rei na Terra do Fogo, mas não desceu do carro. No fim do dia, a expedição chegou a Ushuaia
Diário de Bordo – 11º dia from Portal ECOinforme on Vimeo.
Baia Inútil. Ruta Y71. Terra do Fogo. Argentina. A viagem Honda – Pra Lá do Fim do Mundo está prestes a atingir seu objetivo. Mas tinha uma pinguinera no caminho. E não qualquer pinguinera. Com todo respeito aos pinguins de Magalhães, que zanzam em diversos pontos da costa sul-americana, tratam-se aqui de pinguins-reis – mais raros (é a única colônia na Terra do Fogo), altos (chegam a quase 1 metro), coloridos (ostentam mechas laranjas no peito e na nuca) e bonitos (vai do gosto).
Tudo bem que estava um frio dos infernos (3 graus). Não foi fácil se encapotar de casacos, abrir a porta do carro devidamente acalentado com o ar-condicionado digital do Honda HR-V marcando 23 graus, pagar 70 reais e sair andando no meio de uma ventania patagônica para chegar perto (a 50 metros) do bando de uns 75 indivíduos adultos e 25 filhotes. Mas depois de rodar mais de 6 mil quilômetros desde São Paulo, quem ousaria ignorar aquelas aves cheias de elegância e ficar no carro? Quem? Amyr Klink.
O cara já conviveu tão de perto com pinguins, que se deu ao luxo de ficar a bordo enquanto todos fizeram uma caminhada de 300 metros até as barbas dos pinguins-reis. “Não fui porque não pode chegar perto”, disse quando voltamos com o corpo congelado e a alma feliz da vida com a experiência. Amyr defende que a presença humana, se controlada, em nada interfere na vida das aves. “O problema é levar as fezes na sola da bota de uma colônia para outra”, pondera. Quanto ao nome da baia, Inútil, há quem diga que ele foi dado pelo navegador português Fernão de Magalhães por volta de 1520, quando tentava encontrar um furo no continente para circum-navegar a Terra e descobriu que o caminho não era por ali. Mas há controvérsias.
Nosso dia havia começado às 8h. Estávamos em Punta Arenas, sulzão do Chile, e embarcamos em uma balsa para cruzar o estreito de Magalhães (sim, Fernão, como se sabe, encontraria o caminho) e chegar a Porvernir, ainda no Chile, mas já na Terra do Fogo. Foram duas horas de travessia (37 reais por pessoa e 214 reais por carro). A dica é embarcar cedo para conseguir um bom lugar, perto da janela, e apreciar a vista. Os dois Honda HR-V e os dois Honda WR-V seguiram a bordo, na parte de baixo da embarcação. De Porvenir até a fronteira com a Argentina, pela já citada Y71, além do encontro com os pinguins, seguimos por uma das paisagens mais lindas da viagem até agora (como se não tivéssemos essa sensação todos os dias). A estrada beira penhascos dourados que despencam nas águas escuras do estreito. Revoadas de pássaros e o vai e vem de guanacos surgem como mato. Um arco-íris, o primeiro do dia, deu o ar da graça.
Por volta das 14h, depois de três dias no Chile, cruzamos a fronteira de volta para a Argentina, no inóspito passo San Sebastian. Não deixe de tomar um café (cuidado com o vento que entra no copo e derrama tudo) e de provar as empanadas de carne vendidas atrás do guichê da aduana – custam 12 reais, mas caem bem como aperitivo nos quilômetros seguintes e domam a fome até o jantar.
O caminho segue de rípio até reencontrar a Ruta 3, a mesma que havíamos pego na saída de Buenos Aires. Nesse trecho, os vidros dianteiros de um HR-V e de um WR-V ganharam uma pequena trinca ao serem atingidos por pedregulhos lançados por outros carros – um clássico em viagens pela Patagônia. Aos poucos, o tempo fechou. Sol e chuva. Não deu outra. Outro arco-íris, talvez o maior de todos os tempos, tomou conta do céu. Ao fundo, as montanhas nevadas anunciavam a iminente chegada à Ushuaia, depois de onze dias e quase 6,5 mil quilômetros de viagem. Antes de cruzar o portal da cidade, ainda paramos na laguna Escondida, rodeada de árvores de copa verde escura e pequenas flores brancas na vegetação rasteira. Vale a parada no mirante anexo à estrada.
Em Ushuaia, fomos direto jantar. Amyr e Joel queriam matar a vontade de comer centolla, os enormes caranguejos pescados nas geladas águas profundas do fim do mundo. O restaurante escolhido foi o La Cantina Fueguina de Freddy, na avenida San Martin, na rua principal de Ushuaia, e onde o navegador bate cartão em suas visitas à cidade. Os bichos de quase 60 centímetros de envergadura ficam expostos em um aquário. O quilo no Freddy custa 145 reais. Em um ritual meio macabro, o próprio cliente escolhe a vítima, que vai à panela e, em 15minutos, após cozida, ao prato. Quando o crustáceo chega à mesa, Amyr dá uma aula de como destrinchar, abrir, cortar e descarna-lo.
O navegador é fã e estudioso do crustráceo, conhece a anatomia do animal. Enquanto come, conta uma de suas histórias inacreditáveis, que pode ser resumida assim. Certa vez uma rede de supermercados brasileira fez uma importação enorme de centollas da Noruega. Não teve público. Encalhou. O preço caiu. Caiu de novo. Amyr então saía de moto à noite, de loja em loja, comprando tudo o que conseguia carregar. Acumulou 600 centollas em casa e passou um ano e meio comendo seu prato preferido.
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