O inesquecível nascer do sol no salar – a -15°C e ao som de Hey, you
Trajeto: Salar de Uyuni (BOL)
Terreno: asfalto, terra e sal
Temperatura: -15 a 1°C
Altitude: 3.653 metros
Os Honda WR-V e as X-ADV levaram Amyr Klink, Libera Costabebere os demais viajantes para mas um dia espetacular pelo maior deserto de sal do mundo
Eram 4:30 da madrugada quando entramos nos Honda WR-V a caminho do Salar de Uyuni. Já tínhamos rodado um dia inteiro, ontem, pelo maior deserto de sal do planeta, mas deu vontade de voltar para ver o sol nascer. Um pouco de insensatez devido ao cansaço acumulado, mas principalmente porque estamos em pleno inverno e a 3.653 metros de altitude.No painel de instrumentos do SUV da Honda, o termômetro não quis nem saber. Disse a verdade: estava -14 °C lá fora.
Na estrada que começa excelente e termina péssima entre a cidade de Uyuni e o salar homônimo, Amyr Klink guiou o guia. Apesar da escuridão e da falta de um pingo de luz, o navegador, que faz sua primeira viagem ao salar, quis ir na frente do guia Renato Ayavire. De ascendência aimará, nascido em Llica, um dos povoados na beira do salar, ele guia forasteiros naquele pedaço do mundo há 25 anos. No GPS do celular de Amyr, ele guarda todos os seus rodopios pelo mundo, por terra e por mar. Como já havíamos estado ali na manhã anterior, o navegador assumiu a dianteira e liderou a caravana até a parte molhada do Salar de Uyuni.
Chegamos. Reduzir velocidade. Parar. Desligar faróis. Ligar ar quente. E esperar o sol. Criar coragem e sair para olhar o céu estrelado. Voltar para o carro e aumentar temperatura do ar-condicionado digital. Tomar água. Chegamos cedo. Esperar. Silêncio. Preparar câmeras. Frio estúpido lá fora versus temperatura ideal dentro do WR-V. Esperar. Conversar. Sair do carro para ver as estrelas. Voltar para o carro.
Com a palavra o diretor Diego Castellari: “Estava um frio que eu nunca tinha sentido. Mas não teve como não sair do carro quando a luz começou a mudar do azul-marinho escuro para um laranja fino seguido de um roxo, que em degradê, foi virando amarelo.” Talvez ver as fotos e assistir aos vídeos deixem tudo mais claro.
O espetáculo que se repete desde que o mundo é mundo repetiu-se na manhã deste dia 5 de agosto de 2019. Alguém colocou, em volume baixo, Hey, you, clássico do Pinky Floyd, no sistema multimídia do WR-V. Caiu bem. Houve quem gostou. Houve quem chiou. “Prefiro o silêncio”. “Ninguém é obrigado.” Aos poucos, no mesmo ritmo de sempre, a noite virou dia. A temperatura subiu grau a grau e o salar desvelou sua imensidão – tem o tamanho de oito cidades de São Paulo pintadas de branco.
Estávamos, como já dito, na área alagada do Uyuni. O reflexo dos carros no espelho d’água, conforme o sol subia, obrigava o fotógrafo Erico Hiller e os cinegrafistas Diego Zani e Ricardo Gizi a congelarem a mão do lado de fora do WR-V. Amyr estava extasiado. Como já escrito no diário de ontem, ele surpreendeu todos ao dizer: “Eu nunca estive em um lugar tão especial na minha vida”. Perguntamos se isso incluía a Antártica, onde já esteve 15 anos – salvo engano deste escriba que batuca essas teclas à 1:22 depois de tomar um vinho boliviano chamado Kohlberg. Ele não refugou. Disse que nunca tinha visto algo tão bonito na vida e se mostrou feliz por ter voltado ao salar para assisti-lo no nascer do sol.
Já sob uma luz ordinária – se comparada à vista momentos antes –, os Honda WR-V nos levaram por mais um passeio sobre a área alagada. Marina Lima, nossa produtora que só não faz chover, entrou em uma área de sal amolecido. Antes de o carro atolar, ela percebeu a enrascada e deu ré. O WR-V saiu-se muito bem em um terreno nunca dantes navegado. Renato advertiu Marina: “Nesse pedaço, nem carros com tração 4×4 devem entrar”.
A ideia seguinte era encontrar os pilotos das Honda X-ADV para retornar ao salar e mostrar mais uma etapa da viagem sobre duas rodas. Líbera Costabeber e Marcelo Leite não haviam encarado o passeio pré-matinal devido ao frio. Chegando lá, a dupla não demorou a se divertir.
Começaram despacito, aceleraram, fizeram curvas, ficaram de pé, curtiram. Eram quase 10h. O termômetro já não castigava. Tanto. Zero grau. “Amei acelerar no salar. Não queria ir embora, mesmo com muito frio nos pés”, disse a piloto gaúcha.
Líbera e Marcelo deixaram a parte alagada e aceleraram pelo piso enrugado e áspero da parte seca. Pura diversão até a hora do almoço, marcada para o refeitório do primeiro hotel de sal construído no salar (e no mundo), oPlaya Blanca, inaugurado em 1995, já fora de operação.O branco onipresente, o ar de semiabandono, as dezenas de carros 4×4 dos anos 1980 e os viajantes dos quatro cantos do mundão um ar Mad Max a este pedaço da gigantesca mancha branca boliviana.
Em frente à construção, está a famosa estátua feita de sal do símbolo do rali Dakar. A competição passou por ali em 2018 e, diz alenda (também conhecida como Renato Ayavire, nosso guia), os pilotos de motos, os primeiros a passar, se perderam tanto que os organizadores cancelaram a etapa para carros e caminhões.
Hora de se despedir do salar. E colocar as máquinas para tomar banho. O sal é veneno para os carros e para as motos. Pode complicar o funcionamento de equipamentos eletrônicos e dos freios, por exemplo. Carros que frequentam o salar precisam ser lavados diariamente. Questão de sobrevivência. Para nós também. Um lava-não-jato perto do hotel deu conta do recado. Por 330 bolivianos (125 reais), esguichou e tirou o máximo possível do mineral que tingia de branco os WR-V e as X-ADV. Estão parecendo novos, apesar das dificuldades enfrentadas e dos mais de quatro mil quilômetros rodados desde a saída de Paraty, no Rio de Janeiro nove dias atrás.
O pulo seguinte do dia foi dar um pulo no cemitério de trens, outra atração de dar gosto. São dezenas de locomotivas e vagões carcomidos pelo tempo. Lembram um passado – a maioria delas é do primeiro quarto do século 19 – quando Uyuni era um grande centro produtor de trens para escoaros minérios extraídos das montanhas dos arredores, principalmente de Potosi.
Pelos trilhos que ladeiam o ferro-velho, toneladas de ouro, prata e estanho deixaram (e continuam deixando) a Bolívia para nunca mais voltar… A bola da vez é o lítio, essencial para a produção de baterias para celulares e veículos, abundante nas profundezas do salar.
Depois do banho, seguimos para jantar em um comedor, espécie de restaurante popular, onde tomamos uma sopa de legumes e comemos uma lasanha de carne, que, para uns, estava salgada. Para beber, vinho português. Amanhã é dia deixar a Bolívia. Com sua simplicidade e suas durezas, com sua autenticidade e suas belezas, o país que se prepara para mais uma eleição fascinou todos.
Próxima parada: San Pedro de Atacama, base para conhecer o deserto mais seco do mundo. Que novas alvoradas como a de hoje voltem a acontecer sempre. Com ou sem Hey, you.
Veja como foi o primeiro dia da viagem
Veja como foi o segundo dia da viagem
Veja como foi o terceiro dia da viagem
Veja como foi o quarto dia da viagem
Veja como foi o quinto dia da viagem
Veja como foi o sexto dia da viagem
Veja como foi o sétimo dia da viagem
Veja como foi o oitavo dia de viagem
Fotos: Érico Hiller
cbd for pain
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