Diário de Bordo – 9º dia from Portal ECOinforme on Vimeo.
Cruzamos a fronteira da Argentina para o Chile e aceleramos até um dos lugares mais bonitos do mundo, na opinião de Amyr Klink
Há sempre uma tensão em travessias de fronteiras. Na manhã de ontem, dia 15, a viagem Honda – Pra Lá do Fim do Mundo cruzou da Argentina para o Chile. Passaportes, documentos, carimbos, filas, revistas policiais, cachorros fungando bagagens… A troca de país se deu em Cancha Carrera, ao sul da Argentina. Para chegar até ali, a partir do Rio Turbio, aceleramos por meia hora de asfalto pela Ruta 40. Fora um monte de papéis pedidos pelo simpático agente, não tivemos problema para passar a Don Guillermo, no Chile, onde é possível trocar dinheiro, comprar bobagens em uma loja para turista e perceber que o Chile não anda muito barato para o brasileiro.
O próximo passo da jornada era o Parque Nacional Torres del Paine, um dos lugares no mundo preferidos de Amyr Klink e, a bem da verdade, de qualquer um que visite esse pedaço do extremo sul do Chile. Trata-se de uma cadeia de montanhas que escancara a mudança de paisagem das estepes patagônicas para a cordilheira andina. Apesar de tudo que já vivemos nos primeiros oito dias, Amyr crava: “Hoje é o primeiro grande dia da viagem”. Torres del Paine é um destino de primeira linha. E nem está tão longe assim da garagem do brasileiro – é bem mais perto, mais bonito e interessante do que muitos lugares tão apreciados pelos viajantes do nosso país. Sem rodeios, é um dos destinos mais bonitos do planeta”.
Depois de entrarmos oficialmente no parque (e pagarmos R$ 130!), Amyr sugeriu pelo rádio: “Vamos entrar à esquerda para ver o espelho d’agua que se forma naquela lagoa e reflete as torres quando não está ventando”. Mas o clima aqui é imprevisível. O vento veio e impediu o reflexo desejado pelo navegador – mas não diminuiu a beleza do visual do maciço del Paine. As nuvens iam e vinham, escondiam e desvendavam as torres que dão nome ao parque. A verdade é que há quem tenha vindo diversas vezes ao Torres del Paine e nunca as tenha visto por conta das nuvens.
Caminhamos até o restaurante que fica atrás do novo centro de informação do parque – uma pérola arquitetônica aplaudida por Amyr. O restaurante, diga-se, é caro e não entrega o que cobra – pelo menos no almoço, quando a maioria dos viajantes está nas trilhas. Pizzas e sanduíches mataram a fome da equipe sentada nos bancos de uma mesa do lado de fora. Se a comida não era lá essas coisas, o visual do maciço sob o vaivém das nuvens foi um manjar.
Subimos de carro até o Ecocamp, um hotel sustentável cravado também diante das torres. Não há sequer um metro quadrado de alvenaria. É um hotel de domos geodésicos feitos com tubos de alumínio, inspirado em construções indígenas. Quartos, recepção, restaurante, sala de estar, salão de ioga… Tudo redondo e nada fixado ao solo. Se o hotel deixar de existir amanhã, é só desmontar tudo e em pouco tempo a vegetação volta a tomar conta da área. Fora isso, o Ecocamp, projetado pelos proprietários, dois engenheiros ambientais, produz energia por meio da água que desce das montanhas, trata 100% do esgoto, abusa da luz natural por meio de revestimento transparente nos domos e utiliza alimentos produzidos por agricultores da região. “O vaso sanitário, assim como acontece no Paratii 2, utiliza menos de meio litro na descarga, ante uma média normal de quase 10 litros”, elogia Amyr.
O local desperta a paixão do navegador não apenas pela questão da sustentabilidade, mas porque ele tem especial interesse em domos geodésicos. “Já construí 14. Como hobby, mas sempre aparece gente interessada em comprar.” Amyr e Joel dormiram no Ecocamp, enquanto a equipe seguiu viagem rumo sul, em busca de mais imagens e histórias. Desembarcamos em Puerto Natales, diante do estreito de Magalhães, onde encontraremos a dupla e seguiremos para Punta Arenas. Quanto mais aumenta a latitude, mais Amyr relaxa e abre o sorriso. Em breve estaremos nos arredores de Ushuaia, que, fora a Antártica, é o pedaço do planeta mais amado pelo navegador.
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