Diário de Bordo – 17º dia from Portal ECOinforme on Vimeo.
O doce balanço e a sucessão de imagens de cartão postal pelas janelas da balsa de 32 horas entre Punta Arenas e Puerto Williams, no Chile
Talvez você esteja dormindo. O balanço suave do barco, a calefação da cabine, a paisagem pela janela, o conforto da poltrona, o frio congelante do lado de fora. Tudo leva a uma esticada no corpo e a uma soneca. Mas quando o capitão anunciar pelo alto-falante que a Yaghan, a gigantesca balsa de 71 metros de comprimento está embicando na avenida dos glaciares, levante, agasalhe-se bem, desça até o restaurante, prepare um chá quente e suba até o convés. Vai começar o desfile de glaciares às margens do canal de Beagle.
O primeiro a dar o ar da graça é o Espanha. O capitão para o barco. Fica de frente para o paredão. O Espanha está no topo de uma montanha de meio quilômetro de altura. É de um branco-turquesa que só ele. E com uma enorme cachoeira que desaba de sua base. Dá até uma agonia ver esse iminente derretimento do gelo. “É um sangramento”, diz Amyr Klink. O vento sopra gelado. Logo depois vem o Romanche, seguido pelo Alemanha e pelo França. O Itália é o seguinte. Este começa na montanha e chega até a água. Tem as paredes maiores e mais bonitas que a do famoso glaciar Perito Moreno, na Argentina. Nos cinco minutos em que a Yaghan ficou ali, foi possível ver e o ouvir a queda de três pedações de gelo no mar. Caso suporte o frio, fique mais dez minutos no convés até a chegada do Holanda. No nosso caso, todos estávamos já do lado de dentro da balsa, jogando dominó.
O desfile de glaciares descrito acima aconteceu no segundo dia da travessia de balsa de Punta Arenas a Puerto Williams, no extremo sul do Chile. Foram 32 horas e 303milhas náuticas (540 quilômetros) de navegação rumo sul pelo estreito de Magalhães, por um pedaço de mar aberto, por canais ladeados por montanhas nevadas e, finalmente, pelo canal de Beagle. Do conforto da poltrona ou do gostosos frio do convés, avistam-se lobos-marinhos pulando nas laterais da embarcação, pinguins tomando ar na superfície e pássaros dando rasantes em busca de peixes. Nós não vimos, mas não é incomum dar de cara com baleias. Pode-se (e deve-se) passar horas vendo este espetáculo. Sempre com um chá quente na mão. A bebida está à disposição o tempo todo no restaurante, onde três refeições são servidas por dia: às 9h, às 13h e às 19h. Não são banquetes, mas não se come mal. Teve arroz com lagarto, lentilhas, empanadas, sopas de legumes…
AYaghan é estável, quase não balança. Mas na primeira noite, por volta da 1h, quem estava de pé teve que sentar. Por meia hora, na saída do estreito de Magalhães, a gigante embarcação cambaleou, sem nenhuma consequência maior. Pela manhã, Amyr Klink subiu na cabine de comando e bateu um papo com o 2º piloto, Andres Cardenas. O navegador ficou surpreso ao saber que não se utiliza piloto automático nesta balsa.Cardenas, de 38 anos, explicou que os canais são muito estreitos e recebem fortes rajadas de vento, exigindo correções constantes de direção feitas por meio de um joystick.
O piloto está há 18 anos na Austral Broom, transportadora responsável pela Yaghan. Ele conta que nesse período ficou evidente a redução do tamanho dos ventisqueros, como são chamados aqui os glaciares cravados em montanhas. Ele diz que, excepcionalmente, a balsa faria uma parada naquela noite. Um caminhão com a caçamba cheia de pedras desceria em Yandegaia. Não se trata sequer de um povoado, mas apenas um posto avançado das obras de uma estrada que o governo chileno está construindo para ligar o norte ao sul da Terra do Fogo. Serão 550 quilômetros cruzando um dos pedaços mais intocados do planeta. Segundo Cardenas, no caminho não há nada, nenhuma vila. “Apenas natureza bruta.” A previsão de entrega da obra era de cinco anos, mas a descoberta de ossadas antigas no meio do caminho pode atrasar o cronograma.
Voltando para o cotidiano da balsa. Antes do início do espetáculo dos ventisqueros, Amyr e Joel armaram um lanche da tarde no restaurante para celebrar o iminente fim da jornada. Teve sashimi de atum, mariscos e mexilhões que haviam passado a noite do lado de fora, sobre o WR-V, para se manterem frescos.
À noite uma nova rodada de dominó depois do jantar finalizou os serviços. Por volta da 22h30, passamos em frente Ushuaia – só vendo o mapa para entender o rolê necessário para chegar a Puerto Williams, que fica a apenas 60 quilômetros, praticamente em frente,de Ushuaia, mas do outro lado do canal de Beagle. Resumindo: como não há balsa para carros da Argentina para a ilha Navarino, no Chile, tivemos que subir 600 quilômetros de carro até Punta Arenas e então descer 540 quilômetros com a Yaghan. Mas chegamos. Hoje dormiremos no Fio Fio, hotel recém-aberto e altamente aconchegante em Puerto Williams.
Acompanhe o dia a dia da viagem Honda – Pra Lá do Fim do Mundo
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