Viagem Honda – Pra lá do Fim do Mundo passa o dia na cidade chilena diante do Estreito de Magalhães e se prepara para a chegada em Ushuaia
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Não é sempre que o dia começa com um encontro marcado com Amyr Klink a beira do canal de Señoret em Puerto Natales e termina com a dobradinha caranguejo-pisco em uma casa alugada em Punta Arenas, diante do estreito de Magalhães – também na companhia do navegador. Entre as duas cidades e os dois eventos, uma estrada de cimento de 350 quilômetros, que, com todo respeito e apesar de levar a alcunha de estrada do fim do mundo, não merece tantos aplausos quanto as vencidas nos dias anteriores, na região do glaciar Perito Moreno e do Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. Chamaram a atenção nesse trajeto as casinhas de madeira, que lembram pequenas capelas, encontradas na beira da estrada. Servem como refúgio para pedestres quando o vento sopra sem dó, o que, diga-se, é comum nessas latitudes.
Os dois Honda HR-V e os dois Honda WR-V seguem firmes e imundos; sem nenhum problema mecânico e com a lataria forrada de muita lama. Chegamos a Punta Arenas na hora da fome. Joel Leite, jornalista idealizador do projeto, sugeriu um almoço no Mercado Municipal, diante das águas revoltas do estreito de Magalhães. No último andar do prédio, restaurantes servem peixes e frutos do mar frescos. Não é lá essas coisas, mas come-se bem e a preços justos. Dica é pedir a paila mariña, espécie de sopa pelando e repleta de frutos do mar. Custa R$ 37. O local também é interessante para comprar roupas de frio e suvenires. Comparando com a loja pela qual passamos na fronteira com a Argentina, tem preços excelentes. Um gorro de lã, por exemplo, sai por R$ 22.
Depois do almoço, Amyr nos serviu como guia. Passou por aqui em suas viagens de barco. Conhece bem a cidade. A primeira parada (que viria a ser a única) é pela Plaza de Armas. Arborizada, limpa e imponente, é resquício de um tempo de prosperidade. No fim do século 19, Punta Arenas teve sua febre do ouro. O metal dourado atraiu europeus de tudo quanto é lado, principalmente croatas. Mas foram estancieiros, também europeus, que a base de muito sangue indígena, encheram os cofres da cidade e os próprios bolsos.
História interessante é a da russa Sara Braun, que casou com um desses fazendeiros, José Nogueira, pioneiro na criação de ovelha. Sara foi peça-chave no resgate dos homens de Ernest Shackleton, na famosa e impressionante história da expedição do irlandês. Ela teria convencido um marinheiro a apostar que os desaparecidos estariam vivos. E estavam. O palácio tem um hotel e um restaurante anexos, onde aquarelas simples, mas bonitas, explicam a saga de Shackleton.
Enquanto caminhávamos pela praça, Amyr foi reconhecido, cena rara até em São Paulo. Uma carioca em viagem pela América do Sul de Kombi se aproximou e puxou conversa. Ao fim do encontro, Amyr deu um de seus livros autografado e recebeu de presente uma foto feita pela máquina caixote, mais conhecida como lambe-lambe, do namorado da brasileira, o colombiano J.P. Coca. Antes de encerrar os trabalhos, caminhamos pela orla do estreito de Magalhães por… 10 minutos. Foi o tempo que conseguimos suportar as rajadas de vento gelado vindas do sul. Fomo até o porto comprar as passagens para a travessia de balsa rumo a Porvenir, de onde seguiremos para Ushuaia. A medida que avançamos, as condições climáticas endurecem. Segundo Amyr, parar em um porto nessa região é ser surpreendido com rajadas de 120 nós (200 km/h).
Seguimos para Cabaña Cerro Las Piedras. Ficamos em duas casas de dois dormitórios diante de um campo verde onde lebres corriam soltas. Ao fundo, o estreito de Magalhães com todo o peso de sua importância. Nos reunimos para jantar; Joel preparou frutos do mar e abriu um vinho. Amyr trouxe caranguejo, limão e uma garrafa de pisco.
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